Ok, so this is where I am going to attempt to break down all of my travels in continental Europe into one entry.
Going into this trip, I had a number of goals:
1) Eat well, and eat often
2) Spend a ton of time on my own
3) Walk everywhere that I could
4) RELAX!
5) Find the great things to do in each city that are FREE
I think I did a good job of accomplishing my goals.
For those of you who didn't know my plans, I set forth on an odyssey across the continent from April 12th to the 26th, 2 full weeks. I spent time in Prague, Graz (Austria), Dubrovnik (Croatia), and Bari (Italy). I also had brief stops in Slovenia, Montenegro and Milan. I really wanted to get off of the beaten path for this trip. I've seen many of the destination cities in western Europe, so I opted for the less traveled cities in the central or eastern part of the continent. Given the locations of these cities, transit was generally easy. I was lucky to avoid the Icelandic ice cloud problem, as the only flights were from Dublin to Prague, and Bari to Dublin (via Milan). I traveled by bus, train and ferry in addition to my flights, and had a blast doing it. Traveling by non-plane transportation gives you an incredible chance to see scenery that you never would see otherwise. It also puts you in extended contact with the people around you, your seatmates and the workers, and forces you to get out of your shell a little.
Walking a city instead of driving opens you up to a whole new situation. Instead of just seeing the city, you experience it with all of your senses at once. Its an incredible symphony of sounds, smells and colors. I think the best example of this was Bari. By the time I reached Bari, I was exhausted from 2 weeks of travel, and really just wanted to get back to Galway. All I did that day was wander the city streets, getting unbelievably lost, and watch some people play soccer in the park. What I remember most about Bari was the smell. Every street that I turned onto smelled like Italian food, and no two streets smelled the same. I spent much of the day walking up and down streets and trying to guess what was being made for Sunday dinner in each house. Dubrovnik was the same way. The time I fell in love with it was when I was completely and utterly lost, and trying to find my hostel. I walked down a street towards the ocean and smelled nothing but the sea, and grilled fish. It was incredible.
I got to spend a lot of time on my own. I wrote recipes, and read books (for the first time since last summer I think). I walked city streets, drank solo pints and sampled each city in a quiet contemplative way, with my iPod blasting. And that was all well and good. What I didn't count on was that the parts I would enjoy the most was when there were people around! In Graz I had the opportunity to spend my weekend with Andi Hollerer, who was an exchange student at Willamette last fall. Andi and I both had the same Ex Phys class, competed against each other in IM soccer, and saw each other at parties, but I never really knew him that well. Nevertheless, he invited me to spend some time with him in Graz. I spent a weekend there, and even though I never knew Andi that well before, there were no problems enjoying ourselves during the weekend. The first day I got there, I wrote a paper. Super lame, but I needed to get it finished and out of the way, and I was already exhausted from travel. The next day we got up early, and set out to explore Graz. Andi took me on a walking tour of what seemed like the entire city. We climbed the Grazer Schloßberg, walked through the main squares, and saw the university where he now studies. Graz is a beautiful town. It's well preserved, and the Old Town is a UNESCO world heritage site. I love walking through old cities like that, you feel a most wonderful connection with the history of the place. That night we went and met a group of his friends who were having a birthday party at a local bar. I met so many people, and remember so few of their names. At this party I had the opportunity to catch up with Chris, another Austrian student who had been on exchange at Willamette. I also met a girl studying the English language, who was ecstatic to meet a "native speaker", which is a distinction that I think deserves its own blog post, soon to come. We spent the next day wandering the city again. I bought my train ticket to leave, and we visited the Modern Art Museum and Armory Museum. The modern art museum had an incredible (and strange exhibit) that you got to involve yourself with. Some of the things weren't really art without human interaction, which is a crazy basis for a piece I think.
One of the things I valued most about my time in Graz was the time I was able to spend with Andi's family and friends. After being alone for 3 days in Prague, with the exception of a night spent in an Irish bar with some fellow Spurs fans (Champions league baby!), I was very grateful to spend time with people who spoke English, and that I knew. What I didn't expect was the hospitality. Andi's family provided all of our meals, let me sleep in the spare bedroom, washed my clothes... everything. It was like I was a part of the family for 3 days, which was nothing short of incredible. The same was true with Andi's friends. Traveling about town, it seemed that Andi knew everyone. What shocked me was that everyone wanted to meet me, and to find out where I was from, how I knew Andi. It certainly made the party easier, since I really didn't know anyone, and there was a significant language barrier. It was great to have the company for sure.
After that, I was on to Dubrovnik, the city I was most excited for. It lived up to all the hype. The heart of Dubrovnik is the old town, surrounded by the ancient curtain walls. Beautiful. Just incredible. Walking the tops of the city walls was a beautiful, wonderful experience. You can see the whole city, all the way out to the Lapad peninsula. You can see the whole old town. You can see the islands in the bay. You can see blue water as far as your eye can see. You can see the ancient castle near the exterior of the walls. I took several breaks on my wall tour to sit and read, finding benches to sit on, or little windows on the wall to sit in. I can't wait to go back. I spent all of my time inside those walls, except when I was at the hostel. Well, not all of my time I guess. My favorite place in Dubrovnik was a bar. Typical college male right? Buza bar is no ordinary bar. I have heard it called the "hole in the wall" by travel guides, and God's place by ordinary travelers. It really is both.

Try to find another bar with a view like that. I spent 3 afternoons and evenings out of four sitting in Buza Bar, watching the sunset, and enjoying a good book (and some good beers). The nights were a different stories.
I can say that without a doubt that when in Dubrovnik I enjoyed the most consecutive crippling hangovers I have ever experienced in my life. While I can't absolve myself of blame, I put most of it on my friends at the hostel. The hostel in Dubrovnik that I stayed at was called the Dubrovnik Backpackers Club, and I don't think I ever want to stay anywhere else in that town. The unique thing about the hostel is that it is family owned and operated. When I arrived in Dubrovnik, I chose to forgo their bus station pickup service, and attempt to find it on my own. Mistake. I got so lost, you would not believe it. Of course I am too stubborn to call for directions or a ride, so I tried again. And again. Eventually I wandered to the old town, found a wireless hotspot, and got directions that way. All of this before 9 am. When I finally made it, they greeted me with home dried fruit (including a mango coated in chili powder that was too spicy for even me) and a welcome drink, organic plum brandy mixed with honey. The hospitality did not end there. Each night as all of the residents of the hostel sat and enjoyed the warm evenings on the porch, our hostel mother and father would bring down 2 bottles of wine, and the son would sit and drink with us. Already fortified by cheap Croatian beer, these nights quickly got out of hand. Furthermore, the son runs tours out of the hostel to the neighboring Slavic countries. On my third day in Dubrovnik, I took advantage of the Montenegro tour, traveling down the coast to Kotor, a small town. We hiked up to an ancient castle, saw the smallest town in Montenegro (population 3!) and enjoyed a wonderful lunch by the water.
Beyond the hospitality of the family, the hostel was remarkable, at least during the time of my visit for the quality of the other residents. I met people from all over the world: Denmark, Australia, Ireland, Britain, Canada, France, Japan and Spain. I have never sat in a room speaking English with 8 other people, and been the only American before. It was crazy. I met some great friend on this trip, people that I regret I will likely never see again. Richie was a soldier in the British Army, and my drinking buddy. I learned to never go round for round with a soldier. He also came on the trip to Montenegro, and we got to be moderately close over the 3 days. Raymond and Maya were both from Australia, traveling around the continent, though not together. Toni and Robbie were a Canuck and another Aussie, but both were studying in Lyon. I don't even remember the name of the Danish guy, but he was hilarious. It was an incredible group to say the least, and it made my time in Dubrovnik what it was. We all exchanged contact (in this age facebook) info, and agreed to call whenever we were in the same area, to meet up and reminisce. Robbie said that she was planning a trip to Seattle, and I look forward to meeting up with her and showing her about my town. It's amazing how small the world has gotten now, that we can meet so many people from so many places in a little town like Dubrovnik, in a country like Croatia.
I think that really gets to the heart of what made my travels special, and I hope that you figured out how much I enjoyed everything that I experienced. I want to go back to all of these places, and take my family and friends with me, to show you what I found! Too many different albums of photos to post, so I am going to link you to my picasa site again, and you can see each set:
http://picasaweb.google.com/James.Cebron